Friday, April 9, 2010

The KEDARKANTHA TREK

I am Back…
After a long break from the mountains I am back with a trek to Kedarkantha Peak (an Attempt you can say). 2nd April being a holiday and a Friday… I took 2 days off. For the trek 2 no actually 3 of my friends were supposed to join me, but unfortunately…rather as usual I ended up going Alone!!! Contacted a local guy at Sankri and told him about my trek plan. All set, ready to head to the mountains the story now begins…
A small background to go with… Kedarkantha Peak (3950m) is situated in the Jaunsar region of Uttaranchal, well broadly!! One of the not very often trekked route, close to Har Ki Dun valley, is the Kedarkantha Peak. The trail climbs along the rich and deep forest of chestnut, maple and pines, kisses more than few meadows, tough at many parts, but gives you a glimpse that only heaven could. The best part of this trip is the sight of the peaks Swargrohini, Harkidun and Bandarpuch, so close that you feel you can touch it.
The Route:
Delhi – Dehradun – Purola- Sankri – Juda Talao – Bugyal (Medow) – Kedarkantha Peak – Bugyal- Sankri- Dehradun – Delhi
The one in italics is the Trek Route and I had 2 days to do all of it.

Travel BEGINS here

After finally waiting for all my friends (none of them who joined me), all of a sudden I booked a taxi to go to ISBT. On reaching ISBT, I found that there were too many people desperate to go to Dehradun. Managed to get hold of a ticket in AC luxury (ah!! the so called LUXURY) bus, and I headed straight to Dehradun.

Dehradun to Purola to Sankri

Reached Dehradun early morning. Had a cup of chai, took a Vikram (a Big Auto Rikshaw) to Small bus depot of Dehradun. The plan was to either get a bus to Sankri or reach Sankri via Purola. Luckily the bus to Purola was just leaving (6:30am). I hopped in. Found a lot of enthusiastic tourist, especially a Maharashtrian bunch, who were very excited, taking pictures, playing loud Marathi music on their cellphones, heading to Kempty Falls. Nearly everyone got off at either Mussourie or Kempty Falls. Few got off at Naugaon and remaining few at Purola. Managed to find a taxi heading to Sankri (Luckily), reached Sankri in evening and I put myself up at the GMVN. Sankri is a small hamlet, in midst of the mountains. It’s the second last motor-able village on this route. Last is Taluka in ideal climatic conditions.
My guide Chandan Singh Rana: Contact Details: 09410532978 met me in evening. Initially when in Delhi I spoke to him regarding day charges and not the package. When in Sankri he started talking about the package and stuff. I told him I need him for 2 days and he said he will charge me for 3 days since the trek is for three days and etc, etc…. I couldn’t digest that and refused, saying “aap se jo baat hui thi usi ke hisaab se paise dunga.. nahi toh 2 din main Sankri mein aaram karke waapas chale jaunga.” Knowing that there are many people around, he agreed. Paid him 500/- per day and 300/- day for the poter. Same evening we bought all the ration, fuel etc. Arranged tents and kitchen and were all set for next morning. Had the pahadi chicken for dinner and went off to goodnight sleep.
NOTE: It’s my personal opinion, been trekking in Gharwal, and Himachal this particular guide wasn’t as good as the other few I have had in the past. All he seem wanted was more money. I thought I paid him fair enough.

SANKRI to JUDA TALAO to BUGYAL (Night Camp)

After a goodnight sleep i woke up early at 6.00am. Got done with my daily chores and did my final packing for the trek and was all ready set to go. The guide (Chandan) and poter (Raju) arrived at 7.00am and packed all the ration, tent, sleeping bags... etc etc etc... Paid the GMVN guy and headed down to the market for breakfast. Hot rotis and aloo gobi was served, with a cup of extra sweet chai..I ve started disliking the pahadi tea... its always very sweet!!
That done..we started walking the only flat that I encountered in next 2 days; the walk from tea shop to the starting point of trek.
Once started trekking, it hardly took me few meters to realize.. "Damn its been ages since I last trekked!!!" and the guide says.."Sir ji yeh toh abhi suruwat hai (start)... abhi toh puri khadi chadai hai (steep climb).." I thought to myself.. God helps me and continued trekking. At the back of my mind I was always thinking.. "It cannot be steep climb all the way.. there have to be flats.." and guess WHAT!! I was correct... well partially correct.. It wasnt steep climb all the way.. there were few GENTLE climbs in between... :D..
Trekking up I got my first view of Swargrohini peaks, besides the Harkidun peak!.. Enjoy the pics of the portion of the trek to Juda Talo.. There were many peaks the guide told me about.. dont ask me whats what.. i only remember a few..
The SWARGROHINI PEAKS
Finally after a lot of hardwork... lot of breath gasping and loads of tiny breaks... we reached the Juda Talao. We gain height very quickly in this trek.. so time for acclamatization is minimum. One thing that you gotta watch is your rythm of walking. You break it or stop somewhere for a long time you are in bit of a trouble then. After initial few breath gasping sessions, I caught up a rythm..Small steps, slow walking and stoping for few seconds to ease the breathing. Remember, when climbing/trekking upwards continually always keep your breathing in control..never over do!!
BTW Juda Talo was just another meadow out of few other meadows we passed by on the way.. where groups camp and call it a day. You see the water looks black.. and is actually black. Chandan said its clean..and you can drink it... I doubted that.. but gave it a shot.. Guess what I am still alive. We had our packed lunch for the day here and rested a while. While me and Raju were chattin, Chandan almost fell asleep. We decided to head further.. I took the Juda talao water in bottle, since we were out of water, just to later on realize that, it was stinking. I thought to my self.."What did I drank????" Anyways, just when we started climbing again, I realized how bigger mistake was to rest for that long. Even though the latter part was a gentler climb, I was gettin tired quickly and breaking more often than before.. The result of breaking my rythm...
Enjoy the pictures for the portion of trek from Juda Talao to Bugyal (Night Camp)...
My first clear view of Kedarkantha Peak!!!
and finally the camping ground...
After continuing trekking from Juda Talo.. and passing a few more meadows we finally decided to camp at the next meadow depending on.. 1). Availibility of water 2). Distance to the peak should be do-able in half a day. There were a few shepard houses on the camping ground, which were abandoned for the cold season. Since we were the first ones to trek to Kedarkantha this season and shepards had'nt returned yet, we decided to take refuge in one of the huts. Got settled and enjoyed the view for a while. Warmed up in the sun, while drinking chai and got some stories from Chandan and Raju. By the time sun went down, our dinner was ready; Egg curry and rice. Had a early dinner and it was time for bonfire..
Talking about bonfire..it wasnt just a bonfire...it was a massive bonfire!! I tried the layered clothing funda! Even tough it was cold..I took off my warm clothes and let my body absorb the heat from fire. Once ready to go to bed, I wore my warm clothes again, so the heat gets trapped inside. I was trying this for the first time, since Igot this funda from Team-BHP website. Guess what.. it worked!! My body stayed warm for hours after the bonfire, and actally felt like coming out of my sleeping bag and sleeping in open. But I did'nt!

Around 12.30am the clouds started roaring, screaming and blinking. Followed by heavy rains and hailstorm. Our hut had leaks in the ceiling, so after-all it wasnt the smartest thing to do. Water started pouring in and our sleeping bags got wet. We tried to sop water from coming in and succeded a bit, meanwhile it stopped raining. Relived, we got back into our sleeping bags. I couldnt manage a good sleep until very late and when I woke up, I felt as if I just slept!! Raju told me, apparently there was a mice who was trying to jump on us in the night time! No wonder those noises in the night which kept me disturbing!!! Ah!! now you wonder "How did Raju know there was a mice, trying to jump on us?" Valid question. Answer: He saw him!!! Yes there was fire burning in the kitchen, plus there was candle light too!!!

BUGYAL to KEDARKANTHA BASE to BUGYAL to SANKRI

Bugyal to Kedarkantha Peak to Bugyal
GOOD MORNING.. The first thing I did was.. Popped outside my sleeping bag and had a look to Kedarkantha peak!! It looked more whiter than yesterday... Certainly night hail and rains had some effect!! Had maggi, took only the essentails and me and Chandan headed straight to the peak. Today, I dint feel much. I was climbimg easy and was enjoying more than yesterday. Not that i wasnt enjoying yesterday, but if yesterday was great than today was AWESOME!@! While goin up, there were few patches of thick snow we had to cross. The first thing I realzied that, I wasnt wearing the right shoes for this particular section of trek. After few of those patches, my shoes were wet, my socks were wet and my feet were freezing!!! We still continued to go ahead..

Then came this point, it was thick patch of snow at high angle. If you slip, you go down!! My legs were almost in 2 ft thick snow at times, but we kept on walking. I was a bit worried but we kept saying.. "Thoda aur aage chalkar dekhte hai" and we kept walking..

Finally we reached the base of the peak. It was massive, fabulous..mind boggling!! But the thick snow on the slopes was a spoil-sport. We atempetd to walk up and snow got thickker and softer at places. With wet shoes, and softening snows I was more concerned about the patches we left behind while coming up, right on the edges. Once they soften, they were gonna be nightmare to cross.

After trying from different places, due to the snow and time constraint, we decided to head back to the camp. Dissappointed and cursing myself for getting the wrong shoe we had to start walking the long walk back. "So near yet so far." Sat there in the snow, stairing at the peak for while, with a heavy hear we started trekking down. Those patches on the edge of the slopes we crossed earlier in the day, had softened and had become a nightmare to cross!! Safley we negotiated them and headed back to the camp.
Bugyal to Sankri
Once at the camp, at first i kept my shoes in the sun to dry. Packed off all the stuff. Had early lunch and we started a long descent to Sankri. Chandan decided to take us down through a different route. Along the forest, generally used by the shepards. This route was as good as no route. Steep, at places loose soil (probably dug up by the wild boars) and extremely narrow.

Took loads of pictures of lots of peaks... Swargrohini, Harkidun, Bandarpuch and Supin Pass etc. Being loaded with my bag, my knees and ankle were suffering.

After meeting Rajus father on the way down, Raju and Chandan halted at one of their relatives place for refreshments. Since I started disliking pahadi tea even more I continued my stroll downwards.

The Apple orchard was beautiful, especially what made its back drop was the Har Ki Dun valley.. Someday, I shall come back for the HarkiDun valley trek..with proper shoes and definetly longer time in hand..


Finally at around 3.30pm we reached Sankri. All three of us drained and tired.. Chandan was actually shocked that we (I mean 'I') did the distance in flat 3.30 hrs!!! I sat on the tarmac, thinking to myself, if it was a dream. I was back to the place which I left behind yesterday.. Couldnt belive where I was that morning and where I ended up that afternoon. I guess when one runs out of time and cash, he has to adjust a bit..

I was lucky.. there was a taxi which had come to Taluka to drop to trekkers. It was going back to Mussourie empty. He offered me a seat at 300Rs and I grabbed it. I was all wet and dirty in my clothes. The driver was having his lunch, in the mean time, in the corner of road, I changed my clothes. Few kids passed by wondering what the hell was wrong with me!! I paid Chandan and Raju and boarded the Ambasador!! On the way we picked up three more trekkers who went to Har Ki Dun for a trek.

9.00pm we reached Mussourie and this lucky BUMM got another taxi heading to Dehradun. Paid 50 bucks and got dropped off at Dehradun Rly Stn. Took a vikram to I.S.B.T and kept praying to god that I dont miss the last bus. All this while I thought the last bus to Delhi left at 11.30pm. But damn! as usual I was wrong. Luckily (yeah again "This lucky BUMM") there was a Rajasthan State bus which runs between Dehradun and Gurgaon on one of the platforms. I dint want to spend the night at hotel, so I hopped into it, right on the backmost seat window. It was a night I would like to forget. With the tired mind and body, when you have irritating characters around you, plus traffic jams for more than 2 hrs and mosquito biting you, in an non AC bus you tend to get a lil PISSED off.. I was too. The driver drove as if he was chased by a tiger who hasnt eaten for years, driving through all the potholes on the road and flying through all the speed breakers and humps. It felt as if I was rafting over the rapids on the Yamuna with a very hard raft. My shoulder still has the bruise from that journey.

Next morning 7.30am I got off at the IFFCO chowk. The auto guy took me home for 80bucks. Had a nice bath and I took rest of the day off.

Kedarkantha was a terrific experience. In a way, it showed my what a Kedar Tal or Roopkund would be like. Certainly would do those treks some day. But as of now, thanking you again for being patient and being through my 'yet another' blog.

Thanks

Tanzeem Patankar